B--Breakfast          L--Lunch

D--Dinner

Tour Itinerary

1. Zhengyici Xilou

Dating back more than 340 years, much of the history of Beijing Opera is tied up with this delightful theater, which began life as a Buddhist temple during the Ming dynasty. It's fairly quiet these days, although there are occasional evening performances (call tel. 010/6317-7354 to check). During the day, opera fans gather to practice their art, and for a fee of ￥5 (60￠), you will be allowed to view the magnificently restored interior

2. Cathay Bookshop (No. 18)

One of several branches of China Books, this bookshop (south side of street; tel. 010/6301-7678) has a great range of art materials -- paper, ink stones, chops, brushes, and frames -- at far more reasonable prices than you'll find .

3. Rongbao Zhai (No. 19)

The most renowned art shop in China (north side of street) greets you with what may be the world's largest ink stone. Rongbao Zhai sells woodblock prints, copies of famous calligraphy, historic paintings (reproductions), and art supplies. The handful of workers who are more interested in doing their jobs than in reading the paper are gold mines of information on Beijing's art scene.

4. Fushan Huacai (No. 36)

This shop sells a range of Western and traditional Chinese instruments. Upstairs, you'll find classical sheet music at very reasonable prices. The names of the composers are usually written above the scores.

Further west, the street is due to be demolished to make way for a patch of lawn that no one is allowed to sit on. So backtrack to Nan Xinhua Jie and cross the footbridge to Liulichang Dong Jie.

5. Zhongguo Shudian (No. 115)

Although it's a sprawling, state-run mess, the largest branch of China Books offers a wide range of books on Chinese art, architecture, and literature without the markups that plague arty bookstores.

6. Songyunge (No. 106)

This tiny shop, founded in 1903, stocks a marvelous collection of antiquarian books.

7. Curio Shops

Further east, the street peters out into in a series of bric-a-brac shops. The sea of credit card signs is fair warning of why the vendors are so friendly. But you'll find a fascinating jumble of Buddhist statuary, lacquerware, ceramics, cloisonne, and jewelry, alongside old pipes, clocks, snuffboxes, and general bric-a-brac.

Liulichang Dong Jie ends at Yanshou Jie. Head south before turning onto the second street on your left (Yingtao Xie Jie),

8. Da Zhalan (Dashilanr in Beijing dialect)

Known as Langfang Si Tiao during the Ming dynasty, its name was changed to Da Zhalan after a large stockade was built, presumably to give peace of mind to the wealthy retailers who set up shop here. Now, the proletarian answer to Wangfujing, it's a bustling pedestrian-only street boasting some of Beijing's oldest retailers.

9. Nei Lian Sheng Xiedian (No. 34)

Established in 1853, this famous shoe store (tel. 010/6301-4863) still crafts cloth "happy shoes" (qianceng buxie) and delicately embroidered women's shoes by hand. Using a little bit of charm, you may get a peek at the workshop out back.

10. Tongrentang (No. 24)

Established in 1669, Beijing's most celebrated dispenser of traditional Chinese medicines (tel. 010/6303-1155) has been imitated from Shenyang to San Francisco. In the building to the west is a clinic where you can have your pulse read and receive a prescription for your deficiencies. Reassuringly, everyone is lacking something. The second floor stocks raw herbs, including a single ginseng root (said to boost male Yang energy) from Changbai Shan in the northeast retailing for ￥380,000 ($47,500).

Take a Break

Now is a good time to stop for a cup of tea and a Chinese steamed pastry on the second floor of Zhang Yiyuan Chaye Dian, Da Zhalan Jie 22 (tel. 010/6303-1082; open daily 8am-7pm). The shop sells a bewildering range of teas at reasonable prices. If you're feeling peckish, there's a branch of the celebrated dumpling restaurant, Goubuli Baozi Dian, diagonally opposite.

You're nearly at the east end of Da Zhalan. Don't miss its most famous store,

11. Ruifuxiang Choubu Dian (No. 5)

Established in 1893 on the north side of Da Zhalan, this fabric store (open daily 9am-8pm) was once the prime outlet for Qing dynasty royalty and rich merchants. Sadly, the rich, dark wood panels of the original shop have been replaced by chipboard. Expect to bargain 30% to 50% off the marked prices of the vast selection of silks. A tailor-made qipao (cheongsam) will cost upwards of ￥500 ($60). Allow 1 week, with a couple of fittings.

Turn right down Liangshi Dian Jie, the last hutong before Qian Men Dajie.

 12. Liubiju Jiangyuan (No. 3)

Pickles and sauces of every imaginable variety sit in glass-covered ceramic vats. Parts of this dimly lit store look like they've been untouched since they opened for business 400 years ago.

To the south lies Bejing's old red-light district. If time permits,

13. Ba Dà Hutong (Eight Great Lanes)

This was a major brothel and theater district before the Communists briefly put an end to the world's oldest industry. A 1906 survey found that the capital boasted 308 brothels (more than the number of hotels or restaurants). Many of the former bordellos now offer simple but atmospheric lodgings. Lanes were once graded into three levels, from "lower area" (xia chu) streets such as Wangpi Hutong, where prostitutes satisfied the needs of the masses, up to lanes such as Baishun Hutong, where "flower girls" versed in classical poetry and music awaited. Money was no guarantee of success; there were various manuals on the etiquette of wooing courtesans. The Tongzhi emperor (reign 1862-1874) was notorious for creeping out at night to sample the delights of "clouds and rain." He died of syphilis. These days, "hair salons" in nearby alleys are unlikely to house courtesans skilled in the arts of conversation and playing the lute, but the basic needs of the masses are provided for.

North of Da Zhalan the hutong becomes Zhubaoshi Jie, a jumble of stands, shops, and carts peddling cheap clothing and bric-a-brac.

14. Langfang Er Tiao

During the Qing dynasty, this hutong was renowned for its jade and antiques vendors. Two- and three-story houses with beautifully carved wooden balconies hint at past wealth. To the south is Langfang San Tiao, the heart of the former banking district.

Head left (north) along Meishi Jie up to Langfang Tou Tiao, known as Lantern Street (Deng Jie) during the Qing dynasty. Turn right (east).

15. Qian Men (Front Gate)

North of Zhubaoshi Jie is the south end of Tian'an Men Square. To the northeast you'll see the old Front Gate (Qian Men or more correctly Zhengyang Men), a towering remnant of the city wall through which the emperors passed on their annual procession from the Forbidden City to the Temple of Heaven. Ascend the tower for excellent views of Tian'an Men Square to the north and Da Zhalan to the southwest. There's also a photographic exhibition of the streets and walls of old Beijing.

16.Winding Down

The world's largest KFC is a block west on the south side of Qian Men Xi Dajie. Continuing west, you can take in the nightly performance of opera and acrobatics at Lao She Teahouse (Lao She Chaguan). It's worth paying extra for a seat close to the front. Performances start at 7:50pm and usually run for about 90 minutes. Call to book a spot (tel. 010/6303-6830). Tea and pastries are included.